潔さと覚悟を感じる最高の懐石 : Mitsu Yasu

I came to Kyoto to come here. The food, which was carefully prepared through trial and error, is pure and determined. The first dish is the porridge, and the final dish is a sweet (Yuzu Kudzu soup). The porridge is gentle but also has the strength of wild herbs, and is excellent in both its completeness and balance of flavors. It warms up your body, which has become cold in the Kyoto winter. The yuzu kudzu soup is served at the end in a teacup placed alone in the middle of the tray. Not only is it sharp and rich in flavor, but it also warms your body and soul at the end. It is a delicate and carefully prepared dish that those who think it is just porridge or kudzu soup will not understand. A winter vegetable hassun, fried vegetables are poured into a hot clay pot with soup stock made from kudzu. You will be surprised by the rich flavor of the fried abalone mushrooms. The steamed crab, which uses a large amount of red snow crab with a pronounced sweetness, is delicate and straightforwardly delicious. It's a dish that only those who know the secrets can appreciate, and requires delicacy from the eater as well. Once again, it made me think that I'll come to Kyoto just to come here again. Today's menu was the following. Porridge made with naturally seeded chickweed flowers Seared yellowtail from Himi with grated Shogoin daikon radish and strawberry leaves Winter vegetable hassun Homemade Karasumi powder mochi Steamed red snow crab Grilled bonito with kinome leaf buds and grated yuzu Grilled tiger pufferfish milt Classic soba noodles with white miso Tiger pufferfish clay pot rice Kudzu soup made with yuzu fruit and juice

This restaurant only serves two groups per night, so a reservation is essential next time. Of course, I made a reservation the same time as my last visit and will be returning. The exquisite seasoning and balance show that they have repeatedly experimented and improved upon the ingredients. Even at this level, they have evolved even further... The amazing thing about this restaurant is that they carefully select the ingredients to bring out their natural flavor, and even after many efforts, they serve it casually. This is the best kaiseki restaurant where you can feel their intelligence and sense. I have made a reservation for my next visit in February. Here is what I had today. Clam soup: No ingredients whatsoever, just a clam flavor. Super delicious. White tilefish sashimi: High-quality white tilefish with ponzu jelly. The condiments are also excellent. Vegetable hassun: A classic dish where the vegetables change with the season. This is extremely delicious. This time was also outstanding! Seiko crab: With steamed glutinous rice and kuzu bean paste with ginger. This may be the best Seiko crab I have ever eaten!! White-grilled sea eel: This was my first time eating elastic sea eel. Excellent doneness and seasoning. Soba kaki: Classic smooth soba kaki. Made with white miso that you won't find anywhere else. Autumn taste clay pot rice: Clay pot rice with chestnuts, ginkgo nuts, and bamboo shoots. A small amount of eel as a secret ingredient adds richness and balances the whole. Sweetness: Elegantly sweet baked sweet Yaki-imo monaka. The aroma and mellow feeling of freshly baked Yaki-imo with a burnt finish.

前回訪問時に予約して4度目の訪問。今までも大変素晴らしかったが、今回は本当に恐れ入りました。先付けから甘味まで全ての品が素晴らしく3時間がアッと言う間。高級素材に高級素材を合わせる様な大向こうウケを狙わず、ひとつひとつの素材の本来の良さを引き出すお料理。知性とセンスを感じる最高の懐石料理店。勿論次回予約をして帰りました。

本日頂いたのは以下。

潤菜冷やし葛寄せ
鱧焼き霜　防風
岩手産紫雲丹ジュレ
夏野菜八寸
富山県産毛蟹葛湯仕立て
滋賀県安曇川産若鮎塩焼き
丹後産鮑飯蒸し新玉葱青柚子
蕎麦がき白味噌仕立て
鰻と枝豆の土鍋ご飯
羊羹薄止まり

毎回感動するが、今回感じた素晴らしさは他でも見かける素材を別次元にさせているところ！それでいて足過ぎない、仰々しくない。エッジが立っていると言うととんがっている意味に聞こえるが、こちらは丁寧で角がないが結果的にエッジが立っている(=他では食べられない、差別化されている)。
本日頂いたものは以下。

熟成百合根
明石の鯛　煎り酒　コシアブラ
太刀魚炙り
野菜八寸
蛤とウルイ・花独活・土筆のお吸い物
ノドグロ　青大根
筍の酒煎りと若布しゃぶしゃぶ
蕎麦がき白味噌仕立て
炙り唐墨粉と芹の土鍋ご飯
出来立て温かい桜塩漬け入り最中

高級食材に高級食材を重ねるお店が多い中、こちらの凄味は足し過ぎない、やり過ぎない。
今シーズンはかなり美味いせいこ蟹を食べれたと思っていたが、こちらのせいこ蟹はダントツ一番！鰤かぶら、野菜八寸、九絵潮汁風、焼き本諸子、喉黒漬け焼き、蕎麦がき白味噌仕立て、全てが素晴らしい。締めは天然河豚の土鍋ご飯。ほんのり出汁が効いた薄味の土鍋ご飯は河豚の味がはっきり分かる究極の味付け。最後のデザートは蜜柑の酸味甘味がしっかり効いたハイレベルな葛湯でした。
勿論、次回予約を入れて帰りました。

事前に電話予約してやっと初訪問。
丁寧な仕込、計算を重ねた調理、絵画な盛り付けと可愛い器。素晴らしい料理店に出会えました。近年の高級店に在りがちな高級食材に高級食材を重ねる様な野暮なことはせず、素材の良さをストレートに引き出す料理の全てに感銘を受けました。自分的にはこちらが懐石料理日本一になりました。
本日頂いたのは以下。

・潤菜　美しい器に美しい盛り付け、ほんのり生姜の優しい味わい
・アブラメ刺身　煎り酒が白身の淡白な味を引き立てる
・太刀魚焼き霜　焼き目が不要な脂分を抑え文句なしに美味い
・野菜八寸(もみじ傘、ほおずき、彩トマト、玉ねぎ、そら豆) 野菜だけでこれ程の感動を与えてくれる仕込とプレゼンの素晴らしさ
・鮑葛煮麺　葛煮麺の独特の食感に鮑の旨味と上質の出汁のマリアージュ。
・若鮎(美山産)塩焼き 季節感たっぷり。丸ごと頂く若鮎。
・鱧　山菜(こごみ、蕨、うるい)が鱧の旨味をこれ程引き出すとは知らなかった
・蕎麦がき白味噌仕立て　口の中で溶ける蕎麦がき。見事な塩梅の白味噌
・甘鯛とえんどう豆の土鍋ご飯　甘鯛とえんどう豆のバランスが素晴らしい。最近土鍋ご飯は白ご飯が一番かと思っていたが、これを食べて覆された。普段は残すのに最後まで全部頂いてしまいました。
・お薄の寒天　立てたばかりのお薄をその場で寒天に。寒天とは思えないぷるぷる感と上品な甘さ。